El Camino with a baby April 2018

március 9, 2018

9 March 2018

We have decided with Antonio to go on the Camino already before Mattia was born. I did the Camino Frances in 2013 and went back to do a part from SJPP to Logrono in 2015 and I saw many couples with children. They were not babies though, I saw mostly toddlers. So here we are now, March 2018, tickets booked for Santiago and preparing for the trip.

As a first step of planning, we agreed on the time, April, when Mattia is becoming 7 months old and probably around 7/8 kgs. Another reason why we opted for April is the weather – not too hot not too cold (I walked in April in 2015). Other important points of the planning:

The flight tickets – This will be our first trip abroad and we needed to consider that there are no direct flights to Santiago from Budapest (documents, timing)

The accomodation (not all accomodation gets babies – they might cry too much) I booked already the place where I stayed in Santiago ini 2013 for the beginning and the end of our trip now. (Casas Reais ) and Javier sent me a good link with all the places on the way: http://caminodesantiago.consumer.es/mobile/ I need to mention here that I HATE BED BUGS and I suffered them a lot on my first Camino, so I do not want any risk this time with baby Mattia with us 🙂

Equipment and arrangements – I have searched the net for experiences and they suggest to travel in 3 if we have a baby as one of us cannot carry the luggages for 3. A friend of us was thinging to join us, still we are one month away and he does not have the tickets booked, so I opted for a transport company. (3 euro per day to carry our luggages to the next place)

Preparing Mattia Another important point was to have him ready:Sleeping – easy as (good or bad) he sleeps in our bed, Eating solid foods vs nursing – we decided to start solids only after the Camino, Carrier – we had a personal consultation with a carrier specialist and started to carry him around slowly more and more hours a day from March – as he was too little before. I started to bring him to Maminbaba (Fitness dance with babyboy on my back and Spinning with baby – he always sleeps ), Baby car – we bought a used Bugaboo Cameleon which is much lighter and foldable. (With an infant it is free on the plane)

Clothes for Mattia – to check the weather and the carrier /stroller options.



How Cinzia &me, we have discovered The Big Apple – Tips to get around New York

december 21, 2013

This December I was lucky enough to spend with my friend Cinzia a longer time in New York.

I would like to share some tips and tricks and  make it easier for those who visit city for the first time…

New York not to miss:

Liberty Statue1. The Statue of Liberty

You can have an amazing view on the statue from the FREE ferry from the South port to Staten Island, our suggestion is to visit it inside,Sunset from the top of the Empire State Building it was one of the best thing we saw. You need to book ahead, costs 17 USD including visiting the Liberty Island and audioguide. Ask for a ticket with entrance into the statue and museum inside. Same price, amazing experience.


2. Empire State building (USD 27 entrance, audio 5 USD, map 5USD)

Take your time and make sure you have an audioguide, makes a difference looking at New York with explanation. I suggest to do it not in the first days, we really liked to recognize places we have already visited.

Harlem Subway

3. Gospel (FREE, Wed 6pm, Sun 11am)

Address: The Abyssinian Baptist Church in Harlem, 132 Odéll Clark Place

Make sure you are there well in advance, like an 1-1,5 h earlier. It’s worth it. We arrived on time and almost could not get in as we were not in the first 300 people…

MET NY4.MET   – The Metropolitan Museum of Art (Donation – you give how much you want for the ticket, Fri-Sat open till 9pm)

I think this is the best museum in the world. If you do not believe, go and check it out. Extremely big and very well organized, with fresh flowers in the entrance hall. There are guided visits every hour, I would suggest the highlights of the museum first then any you like. They are all very interesting. The museum is massive, better to have an explanation when you go around. I went back twice, you can do the same as the ticket is free donation.

Imagine - John Lennon memorial in Central park

5. Central Park and the Strawberry Fields – John Lennon Memorial

New York snowy December version 6. Seeing any musical at the Broadway (full price: 120-200 USD, 40-50% discounted tickets at TKTS)oh, yes, in New York you meet the Beatles all the time. Their pictures, their music in the subway or in Central Park.

Tickets are available discounted daily for the same day at the TKTS (in the middle of Time Square). Be there by 2pm so you have a good position at 3pm when they open. We were lucky enough to have 5 nights out to see Broadway shows and concerts and could have done it every evening.

Brooklyn Bridge7. Crossing Brooklyn Bridge Amazing views, prepare your cameras!!! 🙂

8. Going around SOHO, Little Italy, Chinatown

Yes, we did it, it was freezing cold and snowing hard… interesting experience

9. Wall street (the Stock Exchange cannot be visited)

10. Rockefeller Center centre (http://www.rockefellercenter.com)

During Christmas period it is a must. This is the place with the big Christmas tree and the Skating rink.

NYGeneral must TRY and DOs: get lost on the Subway :), have a NY bagel for breakfast, have a cupcake (muffin), go to Hard Rock Hard Rock Café NY - U2 :)Café and check all the things they have from U2, RHCP, The BEatles, Guns&Roses and many more… , have a bite at the dining area under the Grand Central station (we had Chinese and Indian – both nice)

Only for girls: adjust your manicure at any of the Sephora shops at the ‘Nail deck’ or have a quick make up – FOR FREE

We have seen and loved it – Tips if you have more days and time

11. Have a drink at the Roof-top bars: Also worth mentioning that many of them are found at the top of classier hotels.  The name of the bar at the top of the Dream Hotel was called the Ava Lounge:

12.Staten Island Ferry – beautiful views, not only on Lady Liberty, but also on the Verazzano bridge, named after the guy from Tuscany who discovered the Manhattan bay


13. Guggenheim museum (25 USD or donation on Saturdays from 17,45-19,45) IMAG2741

Nice and relatively small. If you have time, go during the donation time, no need of more then 2 hours, still the building is amazing.

14. Macy’s Department Store

Immense. Maybe the biggest in the World. Definitely the biggest I have ever seen or could imagine.

To have an idea: It took us a while to find on the 6th floor in the children department the McDonald’s. It wasn’t small.

15. Shop like locals do:

Check the places like Century 21 or T.J. Maxx Shopping malls with unbelievable discounts on every American brand. Check clearence shelves at any of the big malls.

16. Magnolia cupcake shop from Sex and the City – no comment 🙂 (West Village, on Bleecker Street)Magnolia Cupcake shop
NY Yankee's Stadium :)

17.Yankee’s Stadium – Interesting to visit something in the  Bronx area. Possibly do not go alone if you are a girl.

18.Grand Central Station

19. Watch films of/about/in New York, before and during your stay : Manhattan, When Harry met Sally, Eternal Sunshine, Love story, 25th Hour, Annie Hall, Carlito’s way, Gangs of New York…

20. Jazz – Village Vanguard (20-30USD entrance + 2 drinks) or other Jazz bars, or in the Ghospel church or watch the musical After Midnight at Broadway

21. 9/11 Memorial – we did not go in due to the weather. Open air monument and museum with 2 waterfalls.Central Park

22. Churches we checked and liked: St James (Madison Av/71), St Patrick, Virgin Mary of Pompeii, St Vincent de Ferrer


The subway – ask for a metro map at any station where there is a ticket office, make sure you understand the system before you get on any train as it can become a nightmare 🙂


Metrocard 25+USD for a week, Metrocard 1USD then you top it up with the amount you want – 2,50 USD is valid for one entire ride NY Subway including changes and 2hours on buses in addition and only after the metro ride. Uptown goes North, Downtown goes South. There are different lines on the same track, doublecheck before you get on. Some lines with the same letters go different ways. (in two weeks we could not find out the reason) Not all lines work on the weekends (M line no). Left and right sides can be Experess/Local or two different directions. Express not always stops everywhere – normally as mentioned at the stop…

NY December

I would also mention re: subways that although the subway runs 24 hours, late at night and on the weekends the train routes change due to track work/repairs.  You can check online for any changes in service here:


Always better to ask, possibly at the ticket office as also locals get confused with the subway. Good luck 🙂


ps. Special thanks to Alex and Elvira who made our stay even more special with their suggestions and tips 🙂

San Giacomo ? Saint James? Szent Jakab?

október 4, 2013

Yes, I have decided to make it happen. It became clear when I had in hand the book Il camino from Coelho.

Today booked my flight to Barcelona.

I start the El camino de Santiago de Compostela from Pamplona on the 21st October. Wish me Buen Camino 🙂


7th October 2013 –

Checking forums and blogs about the Camino and I am amazed how information and help are just flowing to me. 🙂

Going now to the Pilgrim office to get my Credential – the Passport of the Pilgrims.

Life in Florence – The magic places of the city

október 4, 2013

I stopped writing the blog as beeing overwhelmed of the hours and hours sight seeing tours around the churches and palaces….


Amazing things I will need to share with you:


– The secret rooms of the Palazzo vecchio tour and the Arnolfo tower

-The wonderful associacion of volunteers who do free of charge tours of the 5 main basilicas of Florence  in Italian

-Berta, the lady hanging out from tha facade of the church next to via Cerretani

– The amazing Albero della vita – tree of life of Taddeo GAddi in Santa Croce

-The secret parts of Santa Maria Novella


but now I need to dedicate my last days to study for the exam. The written first test will be on the 16th October.



Life in Florence – Last Suppers around the city

augusztus 22, 2013

Funny enough, after many ‘ Last supper’ paintings in my life, I finally have understood why in Italian they call it Cenacolo.

In the Middle Ages they called the area of the convent, where they were having meals – Cenacolo and most of the Last supper paintings are painted in that area of the monasteries/convents and churches…

I dedicated my day to the visit of some of these Last supper paintings, as Florence is famous for them, they are all around the city. The first one is only 4 minutes on bike from home, in Via Faenza, where there is the so called CENACOLO di Perugino/Cenacolo di Fuligno cenacolo peruginoPerugino (Pietro Vanucci) was a quite famous artist from Perugia, Umbria (the same city of Baci Perugina – yess!!) and he studied in the workshop of Verocchio together with many others (Mantegna, Boticelli, Ghirlandaio, Filippino Lippi, Piero della Francesca, Leonardo – nice company)

The convent was founded by some superrich families in the ‘400 and connected to the Sant’Anna monastery of Foligno, this is why they call it ‘ Fuligno’.  This place used to be the Egyptian museum of Florence for a long time and after the flood of 1966 they stored here most of the things that needed restauration till 1990.

When they found the painting in the 1800s, someone was thinking to see the autograph of Raffaello d’Urbino on the dress of St Matthew apostol, then they became sure that the Cenacolo was made by Perugino and bottega, 1462. (workshop)


sant apollonia cenacoloThe second Supper of the day was at the convent of Sant’Apollonia made by Andrea del Castagno (from the city of Castagno :))

This one is a more scary one, everybody looks strange on it and Juda is always sitting on the other side of the table. No doggy or other nice things around.


The next stop wasthe Cloister of the Barefoot (Chiostro dello scalzo) dedicated to the Company of the followers of San Givanni Battista, that is closed for holidays. If you look at the entrance, it reminds me the film Eyes wide shut – with Nicole Kidman – it seems to be quite scary.

I continued to the San Marco complex – convent at Piazza San Marco.

It consist of 4 main things:chiostro dello scalzo

Cenacolo 4: Last Supper of Domenico Ghirlandaio – my favuorite one so far, with a cat and with nice birds, everybody barefoot with different hair stiles and San Giovanni (=Maddalena=wife of Jesus) sleeping on the table…

Cloister – with a massive cross and San Domenico (= St Sunday) painting from Beato Angelico.

Biblioteca – area with miniatures and explanation of how they were making colours and painted the codexes – extremely interesting. Beato Angelico dedicated years to paint some of these miniatures.

Cells of the monks: Beato Angelico was living for his entire life in the convent and made a nice painting in every monk’s cell. There is a cell where Girolamo Savonarola (important person from the life of Florence) and where Cosimo the Medici were staying – higher class cells with minibar and underground paintings. 🙂

Foresteria – where they were making the simbols/coat of arms for the buildings for the different families

Life in Florence – discovering the miracles of the city

augusztus 19, 2013

San Lorenzo Basilica and complex

Open 10-17, the library and the chapels only in the morning

This is a massive complex that I visited on two occasions, due to the amount of things to see.

There is the Biblioteca Laurenziana designed by Michelangelo on request of Clemente VII (the first Medici pope) to house the manoscripts and books they had. Imagine a huge reading room designed by Michelangelo and then because of his leave to Rome, finished by Giorgio Vasari with amazing glass windows and pavement and with books from Vergilius or scripts from Leonardo da vinci.

From the central cloister you get to the Tomb of Cosimo il Vecchio incorporated in one of the main pillars holding the basilica above and his favuorite artist Donatello who died 2 years after him.

The Basilica of San Lorenzo– founded in 393!!! As first cathedral of Florence – main church for the Medici family. Filippo Brunelleschi was commisioned to reconstruct it in the ’400. The church is full of amazing paintings and pulpits from artists especially from the Reneissance. With your ticket they give you a tablet to guide you around J

Medici chapels – Le capelle medicee

Again, our friend Michelangelo who designed the funeral monument of 2 medici princes, then he needed to run to Rome, so left the rest unfinished. A really interesting exhibition around the building about Leone X, the second Medici pope.  Minimum an hour needed only for this.

The House of Michelangelo – Casa Buonarotti

(Attenzione – closed on Tuesdays, Via Ghibellina 74)

Another amazing spot, the building complex of the Buonarotti family, with the first pieces of Art from Michelangelo – La madonna della scala and the Battaglia dei cherubini (did them when he was arond 15), handwritten letters addressed to the Pope Leo X, who was commissioning him to do the Facade of the San Lorenzo Basilica, then changed his mind (and probably budget :)) and assigned him to work on the Medici chapels…

Plasters, drawings, paintings… showing all the preparation for the amazing masterpieces like David. Walking in history 🙂

OLTRARNO – oN THE Other side of the Arno River –

Chiesa di Santa Felicitá – Church of San Felicity near Ponte Vecchio –  via Giucciardini

A little church dedicated to Saint Felicitas of Rome (the 25th January – My B-day!!! is dedicated to her) with a Chapel built by Filippo Brunelleschi (the one with the cupola) and the masterpiece painting from Pontormo that is the most important painting of manierism in Florence. There is also a painting of St Felicity and her 7 sons who were killed all in different ways together with the Saint…

If you continue walking, you can arrive to the church of San Frediano Nuovo in Cestello (only mornings) –

St Frediano was a bishop in Lucca who had a couple of miracles, mostly connected to his skill of being able to talk to the rivers and tell them to not to flod the city, but to flow somewhere else. He talked also to the Arno river in Florence.


Life in Florence – the tropical days of August

augusztus 12, 2013

Emilia changed my life.Emilia

To have a bicycle in Florence is a MUST. and you do not understand it till you do not own one.

This is what happened to me. When

I first saw Emilia,I was sure that a new page of my life in Florence

is opening up.

So having Emilia, it’s easy to get around and what is more, having friends with bikes can multiple the fun of getting lost in the city 🙂 And not only!!! Other advantages of having a bike:

– keeps you fit while cycling around

-you generate a nice breeze when you go fast that helps in these tropical days

-you can put your bag/cardigan/shopping/books in the basket, larger items and friends on the back (portapacchi)

-smaller then a car and easier to park

-can go in one way streets/ can cross red lights / can go in dead ends and can get out 🙂

and many many more advantages…


Dante’s INFERNO at Piazza Santa Croce


Roberto Benigni (the famous Tuscan actor from the film La vita é bella – Life is beautiful) every summer recites on the Santa Croce square parts of Dante’s  Divine Comedy.

Dante was from Florence and actually on the square there is a massive statue of him that makes the performance even more impressive. This year (most probably because of  the new Dan Brown book ) the Inferno (Hell) was on play. We went to the opening evening, 20th July and on the 5th August we watched it from the window of a friend who lives at Via Torta next to the square. If you speak Italian this is a MUST summer event in Florence 🙂

Torre San Niccoló

tour of 30 min from 17 – 19,30, 3 euro (discounts for students, free for guides) tel. (comune di Fi) 0552768224

Another amazing experience, the visit of one of the still existing towers from the 74 towers that were built along the old city walls of 8 km. Ruling the area with the same name, from the San Niccoló tower we had an amazing view on the sunset.sunset best

The guide told us the stories about the city walls, the tower houses around the city, about San Niccoló (Santa Klaus) and the legend around the balls we usually put on the Christmas trees. The stariways built behind the tower by Giuseppe Poggi (1965) take us up to Piazzale Michelangelo.

And of course the Easy Living bar 🙂 with the Spiaggetta small sandy beach next to the ARno river.

Summer evening must Dos at Easy :

– Frittura di pesce con patatine e mayonnese (=fried seafood with chips and mayonnese)

-Yoga on the little sandy beach

-Aperitivo, which is free with your drink

10 August – Saturday – The night of San Lorenzo and the shooting stars

Another amazing day in Florence, starting with breakfast at sunrise 🙂 with Justyna at Santa Croce and then onto the little town of Puccini: LUCCA. City visit, churches, cathedrals, shops, Puccini, Torre Guinigi, Ilaria Carletto, amphitheatre square, city walls, Napolean square and then onto Viareggio and the sea.

The are of Viareggio in general is famous for the night-life and not for the sea… so we needed some local advice to find among the forest and bushes the long free-beach where people build up their own tents and which is an  infrastructure and jelly fish free zone 🙂


Big waves and a nice leisurely beach day with the girlies finishing with an Aperitivo at the Carpe diem bar before heading back to Florence to be on time for the shooting stars.


We were watching the stars from the terrace, I caught 5 before falling asleep  and having an amazing nice sleep outside, finally not in the flat where it is average 67 degrees celsius in the night. What a nice day!!! 🙂

11 August – The cars, the bikes, Justyna and me

A day of studies, full immersion in the ‘200 and Romanesque period of Florence together with Coppo di Marcovaldo, Cimabue and all the others. In the evening I had the brilliant idea to go to check the cars (mine haven’t been used for weeks). Justyna came with me and without a map it took me a bit to recognize where they were parked around the Cascine park.

Once got to the cars, checked them, all ok, moved them around the parking area then I took off the battery of my car and closed its door. Then I realized to have the car key, my phone, my bag and everything else inside the car, which was shut. NO panic – Instead of destroying the car door, we started to plan with Justyna to go home and climb up to the terrace to enter the flat through the window to get the spare keys for the car. Sounded like a plan, we got back to the bicycles when I realized to have the house keys in the basket of my bike 🙂 Lucky me!!! So we cycled home, had a drink and got back to the car with the spare keys.

After the adventure we well deserved the fried sea food with coke at Easy Living 😀

12 August, Monday and a new week 🙂

Only 4 days left and Edina and Beata are coming to visit me… I am soooo excited!! 🙂

This morning I decided to try to get hold of the labirynth of opening hours of the churches and visit the ones connected to my studies about ‘200 and Romanesque.

I got on Emilia and went to check the opening hours of Battistero of San Giovanni and the complex of the Duomo. Actually a combo ticket is 10 euro for all 5 monuments and ticket is valid for 6 days,(Campanile, Cupola, Battistero, Museum of the Duomo, Santa Reparata) this is what the lady said when I asked her at the entrance instead of doing hte 50 m queue for the ticket office. I still do not understand who are these unstoppable and fanatic tourists who want to visit Florence even when it is crazily tropical desert type HOT!!!???

Then onto the street Borgo Santissimi Apostoli to try to find the church with the same name, even if maps do not show these small churches. And yess!! a very helpful local person showed me the little courtyard called Limbo square and the little church with paintings from the byzantine period of Florence. Limbo is the place where the kids who are not baptized stay after they die. with this intro, the church has a strange atmosphere and they have leaflets and signs asking you to come and meditate among the walls of the church.

Next stop Oltrarno (= on the other side of the river)

San Frediano in Cestello church


and again found it closed. Open from 17-18:30…

So I continued with Emilia to the church of Santa Maria del Carmine and the Capella BrancacciCapella Brancacci

Piazza del Carmine 14 Tel. 0552382195

Amazing Church which was burnt down in 1771 and rebuilt in Baroque style – that is not typical for Florence.

The most famous Brancacci Chapel can be visited all they long and free for guides 🙂 so I spent some time around the cloister and the paintings from Masaccio, Masolino and Filippino Lippi.

Life in Florence – Too much Tuscan sun???!!! :)

augusztus 1, 2013

Once upon a time I decided to have some time off from the everyday life and planned to move to Florence for a while, the city I love best in Europe.

Lucky enough, it’s been a month now that I left my job, flat and normal life and now I find myself in Firenze where I spend the days with preparing for a Local Guide exam for the territory of Florence. I am local guide for Budapest and used to work for years as a tour guide, taking people around the city telling interesting stories to them is still something I really love 🙂

The territory that I need to learn for this exam includes the city and 44 smaller locations around… As during my visits of museums, churches, hospitals, libraries I see many interesting things I decided to take notes here what hidden treasures I find every day 🙂

1 August – This morning I needed to go to the Provincia office and on the way back I stopped at the English Cemetery, where Elizabeth Barrett Browning is buried – toget

her with many other famous writers, will need to go back as it is closed in the morning on Thursdays. (Welcome to Italy!!! :))

Later I decided to walk towards the Santissima Annunziata square and on the way (Borgo dei pinti) I found the house of Andrea del Sarto and the place where Giuseppe Giusti stayed…Once arrived to the SS. Annunziata square, I decided to start with the Basilica.

Once entered, I listened to the mass a bit then walked around and tried to memorize at least some of the 1789 paintings and saints and painters in the 30 + chapels of the main part of the church… then I gave up and went out to the cloister through some proibited exits with curtains.

That was the area where apparently Madonna del Sacco (Madonna with Bag – what else in Florence :)) painting from Andrea del Sarto was located. It was all closed outside, then I started to chit-chat with the person (gardener??) who was cleaning the cloister with a vacuum cleaner (WTI = welcome to Italy). I think this guy is a professor from the Faculty of Arts of some local University or maybe a tour guide in incognito… He told me about all the interesting stories how the curch was founded by the 7 saints, that the last one was S. Alessio and his family the Falconieri were sponsoring the church. The stories about the company of the Annunziata that was the Association of the Arts and drawings. As this church was the main site for it, many artists contributed to embellish the church (Agnolo Bronzino, Andrea Del Sarto, Vasari, Ghirlandaio etc) and according to the urban legends (and the guy :)) the artists (including Benvenuto Cellini) were mummified and buried in a seated position in a circle under the church like knights in the medieval times.. who knows?:)

He also let me in the Capella della compagnia di Santa Lucia – amazing paintings S Luca painting the Madonna from Vasari and many others and 12 sculptures, definitely the most beautiful and interesting part of the church. He let me stay and check around for 4,5 minutes.

He also told all the stories about during the flourishing times of Florence most of the rich people lived from banking/lending money for interests = Usuraia , which was a sin according to the church. To avoid INFERNO  they needed to buy ‘ Solvation’ (cancellation of their sins) donating a lot of money to make sure they can be buried somewhere at the garden/courtyard/chapel of one of the churches and not outside the city walls.  This cloister is just fully packed with Lapids and tombs. Apparently criminals and people who commited public sins were burnt outside the city walls and not buried.

He also showed on the tomb of one of the rich Falconieri guys that the church originally was small and the 7 saints who moved here to live (abandoned their families) in the little place built around the chapel of Annunziata.

Annunziata is a Madonna painting, and according to the legend a Priest (frate) called Bartolomeo was painting this fresco and tried to finish it but somehow he could not manage to paint the face of the Madonna. According to the legend one night while he was sleeping, the painting got finished – miracle happened 🙂 This reminds me mr bean and  the whistler’s mother painting…

Late afternoon trip to the Uffizi Gallery where I needed to queue even if I have the Amici degli Uffizi card that entitles me to free entrance – this brought me to meet a lady, chit-chat in the queue.
She said she visits the Uffizi very often, even when she has just a half an hour or an hour. She started to come here with his grandfather…

At the end I told the lady that I am more then happy to follow her to see her favourite paintings and she can also show me around if she wants. She was enthusiastic and definitely a fan of Botticelli and his era. We spent an hour together and I really enjoyed to see the Gallery having as tourist guide the President of the Botticelli Association of Italy. 🙂

On the wanegroniy back, grabbing an awsome Ganduja chocolate cake at the REvoir bar on Piazza Signoria from the book INferno of Dan Brown, I discovered that the Negroni cocktail was invented in that particular place.

An important observation of Justyna, Anja and mine from the last 5 weeks, that in Italy people drink – eat – drink – eat – laugh – sing – drink – eat but DO NOT DANCE.

In the evening we decided to go to Flo (http://www.flofirenze.com/) that seems to be the only place where you can dance in the summer.

The place is nice and we had fun, even if from the 367 people who were there last night only 39 were dancing + us 🙂 The only problem was that we were waiting in the queue for 2!!!! hours and when we left at around 3:30 there was still a queue… On the way walking home we took some jumping pictures around the empty Piazza della Signoria !!! 🙂

What a nice day in Florence!!

The Gili Islands of Paradise

június 5, 2009

A Gili szigetek 3 szigetből álló szigetcsoport Bali és Lombok között, hatóságilag már Lombokhoz tartozik.


Gili Trawangan – szörfös hely, nem jártam ott, azt mondják Kuta Balihoz hasonlít… Gili Meno nyugisabb, a nevetős gombászatról híres hely, Gili Air meg maga a paradicsom… (azért itt is vannak half meg full moon bulik, de csak néha, és azok híresen nagyok)

Bali kikötőjéből Padangbai-ból a Payrama című turistákra szakosodott egyesülés lelkesen tovaszállít minket 3nm-eres homokos fedélzetű bárkáján. Az út vicces, csak turisták, ingyen tea, sültbanán chips és ebédre valami izé… no ételmérgezés és az út elején megkérdezik, hogy ki kér tablettát sea sickness ellen. Délután már ott is voltunk, de a sima ferry kb 10 szereséért. A sima ferryktől sem kell félni, nagyok, kényelmesek, nagy deck-kel és semmivel nem rosszabb mint a turistáknak kitalált lélekvesztő.

ps. a ferryk se sokkal jobbak, mint a repülők… de sok a sziget… szóval valamelyikre csak sikerül kiúsznunk ha süllyedünk 🙂 A Lombok körülötti ferrykről látni mini delfineket sokszor, kísérik a kompokat.

A dwarfism/giantism szindrómát már Balin és Lombokon is látni, de a komodói példa a leghíresebb. A jelenség maga a normálisnál nagyobbra nőtt élőlények (pl. komodói sárkánygyík, ami valójában egy 3m-es gekkó) és a normálisnál kisebb verzióban megjelenő emberek (140cm) és például mini delfinek formájában mutatkozik.

Na, ő tuti dwarfism!!!

Na, ő tuti dwarfism!!!

Gili Air-en a Sejuk Cottages-ben szálltunk meg, aminek a tulajdonosa egy francia pasi, Bernard Sambare. (Tel 0370636461, email. sejukcottages@hotmail.com, mobil. 081339535387 – 10eurotol vannak a szobák, regglivel – érdemes a tetőteraszosokat foglalni – de csak ha luxus Kék Lagúna feelinget akar valaki megtapasztalni 😉

Szerintem a legjobb emailt írni előre, hacsak nem beszéltek franciául, ugyanis a tulaj petit beszél csak angolul.

A FRANCIA NYELV ISLANdS WIDE A LEGBESZÉLTEBB külföldi NYELV INDONÉZIÁBAN. Egyetlen szerencsém, hogy az olasz nyelvtan meg a nyelv is közel áll a franciához, így érteni lehet… egyébként totál fogyatékosnak éreztem volna magam, merthát HOGYHOGY ÉN NEM BESZÉLEK FRANCIÁUL??? – Bali alsón…. De tényleg, mindenki vagy francia volt, vagy beszélt franciául! A másik fontos Islands wide beszélt világnyelv a Bahasi – azaz az alap indonéz. Na, ezt is beszéli mindenki, és egyébként pár nap után nekem is sikerült beletanulnom. Nincsen ragozás és igeidők, se esetek… ami kb így néz ki:

Én menni holnap. Ti menni holnapután. Ők menni tegnapelőtt.

Na, most már nem titok, miért is álltam neki a gyorstalpaló indonéz nyelvkönyv után franciát tanulni, mikor visszajöttem 🙂

Az egyik tetőteraszos shelter a paradicsomban :) (sejuk= shelter)

Az egyik tetőteraszos shelter a paradicsomban 🙂 (sejuk= shelter)

Ha Air-re mentek, MINDENKÉPP itt szálljatok meg… paradicsom a paradicsomban… tetőkörteraszos ‘bungalók’ minibárral, légkondival, minden kényelemmel, félig nyitott fürdőszobával (ez indonéziában gyakori) ahol a csillagok alatt tusolva egy full dizájnos fürciben hallgatod a müezzint… hihetetlen egy hely. 1 pillanatra van a parttól a napfelkelte oldalon… Én ha tehettem, megnéztem… a naplementék is mesések Gili Air-en. Búvárhelyszínek is vannak, snorkelingelni is érdemes. Bringát ne béreljetek, mert kb 1 óra körbemenni a szigeten, de biciklit tolva a homokban sokkal tovább tart.:)

Matahari Terbenam - Sunrise at Gili Air

Matahari Terbenam - Sunrise at Gili Air

A szigeten már rengeteg külföldi vett telket és egyébként is MINDENKI KÖSZÖN MINDENKINEK!!! Ez fontos!

Nincsenek autók, motorok, csak pónifogatok (dwarfism megint). A Sejuk-hoz nem kell pónifogat, ha leszálltok a kikötöben, jobbra a poros úton 15 perc járásra van…

Na, még néhány kép, csak hogy kedvet kapjatok!


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The Indonesian adventure… March 2009

június 1, 2009


A kaland 2009 márciusában kezdődött … Jakartában…

Ez vár mindenkit mikor leszáll a repcsiről :)

Jakartáról annyit érdemes tudni, hogy egy óriási város, ahonnan az AirAsia-nak köszönhetően könnyedén lehet bárhova repkedni nemcsak Indonéziában, hanem többfele Ázsiában is.

Indonéz légitársaságokból rengeteg van, de mielőtt lelkesen elkezdenénk járatokat keresgélni, érdemes tudni, hogy 1. szinte mind fekete listás Európában, 2. hiába próbálunk foglalni, csak Indonéz bankkártyával lehet… szóval marad az Air Asia ( http://www.airasia.com) ami nagyjából megbízható, olcsó, mint a többi és nyugodtan lehet foglalni bármilyen kártyával. Azért ezek a járatok se kalandmentesek…

Fontos info: induláskor mindig fizetnünk kell a reptéren reptéri adót… elég sok, úgyhogy jobb odafigyelni, hogy legyen elég rupiánk. (40ezertől 100000ig) Átszálláskor is kell fizetni kétszer …

Az első említendő élmények egyike még érkezéskor, hogy a repülőn ki kell tölteni egy Arrival card-ot aminek a departure része benne marad egész időre az útlevelünkben. A kártyán nagy nyomtatott piros betükkel a következő áll:

HALÁLBÜNTETÉS JÁR bármilyen drog használata vagy birtoklása esetén Indonézia területén.

Jópofa ugye? Welcome to Indonesia!:)Állítólag ez azért van, mert a kormány felügyeli a drogkereskedelmet.  Mindenesetre bevillant néhány film, amikben világvégi országokban füvezés miatt életfogytiglanra ítélnek turistákat… na, ez pont ilyen hely!!!

A reptérnek  Jakartában két terminálja van, amik között ingyenes kisbusz közlekedik. Ha valaki be akar menni a városba, akkor egyetlen taxitársaságot szabad választani: Bluebird néven futnak és korrektek az áraik. (tel. 79171234)

Ha esetleg várni kell, van a reptéren egy Taman Sari Royal Heritage nevű SPA, ahol isteni masszázsok vannak, százcsillagos luxus színvonalon őrületesen olcsón… én másfél óráig masszíroztattam magam 3000Ft-ért 🙂 Have fun!

Mi az amit mindenképp vigyünk? kézfertőtlenítő gél (hepaA, hepaB… jobb félni, mint megijedni), fogselyem (sokmindenre jó lehet), zsepi, zseblámpa (ha lehet fejlámpa, mivel a közvilágítás még nem mindehol tökéletes), betadine (ha motorozol, ha kipróbálnád a szörfözést vagy sziklamászást… vagy csak úgy, biztos ami tuti), óvszer (nem árulnak sehol, ha netán találnátok egy kórházat, na, ott lehet az orvossal feliratni! Don’t be surprised, ha már lejárt:)

Mi az amit on arrival érdemes beszerezni? Lonely planet (olcsó és a könyvesboltokban visszavásárolják, ha már nem kell, Ubud), mosquito repellent (nincs szúnyogháló, viszont malária&szúnyogok igen – ja, és nehogy itthonról vigyetek, mert az indonéz szúnyognak más ízlése van, mint az európainak)

ide még írok, ha eszembe jut más egyéb…


Bali az átlag ember számára = Indonézia… pedig ez aztán egy óriási tévgondolat…

indonesia map

Bali csak egy pöttynyi sziget a hatalmas, több, mint tízezer szigetből álló országban.

Az ok, amiért az átlag turista csak Bali-ig merészkedik, az valószínüleg, az, hogy az egyetlen majdnem teljesen hindu vallású sziget. Az elvetemültebbek, a szörfösök és a világjárók merészkednek csak a hindu világ határain túl, a világ talán legnagyobb muszlim országának végtelen szigetvilágát bejárni.

Bali szigete nem nagy, könnyen bejárható, most csak a fontosabb helyeket emelném ki, meg a hasznos tudnivalókat.

Bali map

Bali map

Bali reptere Denpasar – ahonnan a taxi fix árakon visz el a különböző városokba. (érdemes még a sorban álldogállva megkérdezni másokat, hátha ők is ugyanabba a városba mennek 😉

A legfontosabb városok: Kuta Bali, ami a szörfösök paradicsoma és kb Ibizához hasonlítanám. Pezsgés, bárok, szórakozóhelyek, éttermek, szörfös boltok és ausztrálok minden mennyiségben. Nekem ez is tetszett, bár van akinek turista… nadehát nem azok vagyunk???!!!

ps. az ausztrálokkal semmi bajom, de készüljetek fel, hogy a boltokban a szörfös cuccok jó áron vannak és nagyon szuperek, csak a méretek Ausztrálok. Női flip-flopot amik tetszettek sajnos csak 40-es mérettől árultak :S

Kuta Bali sunset

Kuta Bali sunset

Sanur, Seminyak és Kuta Legian szép és nyugisabb helyek. Inkább romantikázni és pihenni vágyóknak.

A pihenéssel Indonéziában vigyázni kell, mert szép és pihentető egy tropical beach emberek nélkül, de egy hét után már el tud kezdeni az embernek az agyára menni. A képeket visszanézegetve kicsit nehéz elhinni, de TÉNYLEG!!! 🙂

Sanurban ez volt a szállás (Puri Mesari – Mertasari 66 A tel. 62 361 281578 /6281338770770 http://www.purimesari.com – Érdemes előre foglalni!!!)



Reggelente a fákról, bokrokról lehullott virágokkal rakják tele a szobákat. Hihetetlen, de a virágoknak MINDIG nyílnak és mindent beleng a virágillat, illetve az úgy nevezett OFFERING-ek illata. Hindu szokás, hogy kis levélből fonott kosárkába virágokat, illetve ételt tesznek és minden olyan dolog elé odabiggyesztik, ami számukra jövedelmező: lehet szó egy panzióról vagy akár egy autóról. Az orchideák az utcán csüngenek a fáról. Csak úgy… mint mondjuk itthon a pitypang. A másik helyes dolog, hogy ezeknek a szállásoknak van medencéje, aminek a partján heverészve élvezhetjük az idős germán, árnyékban Bintang-ozó turisták társaságát.  (Bintang =csillag, a helyi sör)

Az alkohol nagyon drága Indonéziában, így mindenki Bintang-ot iszik. Bintang Bintang Bintang

Másik érdekes dolog, hogy éjjelente az égen rengeteg csillag van. Nem száz, hanem ezer és ezer. Az egyetlen csillagkép, ami mindig látszik, három egy vonalon egymástól egyenlő távolságra levő csillag, ami déli irányt jelez. A neve Bintang Travangan. Mikor látjátok, eszetekbe fog jutni! 🙂

Ha valaki Balin tölti csak a nyaralását, a not to be missed listán fent kell lennie

UBUD – nak.

Kis város a hegyekben, ahol sikerült egy érdekes helyi fesztivált elcsípni.

Nem kell aggódni, non-stop fesztiváloznak és 210 naponta van újév, szóval tuti mindenki belefut valahol egy helyi ünnepbe. Ha nem nyepiről van szó, akkor nincs is probléma.

A Nyepi az újévet megelőző nap sunset-től sunset-ig tart. The Day of Silence = csendben kell lenni, hogy a gonosz szellemek meg ne találják Bali szigetét. Ez izgalmasan hangzik, addig, amíg az ember rá nem jön, hogy Nyepi alatt nemhogy áram vagy bármilyen szolgáltatás (étterem, taxi) nincs, de még beszélni, olvasni, vagy a szállásról kijönni se szabad. Persze a reptér is bezár (néha 1-2 nappal előbb is), mert a gonosz szellemek a turistákkal tömött gépeket végképp kiszúrnák. És ha valakinek ez se elég, a Nyepi feeling a környező Lombok szigetére is kihat… én csak 3 napig vesztegeltem, mert se a ferry, se a repülő nem közlekedett, se a helyieknek nem volt dolgozhatnékja szolidaritásból.

Morale della favola: Tessék jól körbekérdezni milyen helyi ünnepről is van szó, mielőtt örülnénk!

Ubud egyébként a legtöbb szórakozási lehetőséggel bíró hely Bali szigetén:

– Monkey Forest Sanctuary (majomfóbiásoknak nem ajánlott) – fél napos program (15000rupi egész napos jegy)

– Hiking the surrounding Rice fields (Lonely planet-ben több ilyen hiking út is le van írva.) Nagyon poén!

-Galériák, kis múzeumok

– Indonéz táncbemutató egyik templomban (én spec a Semara Kanti címűt láttam, de tuti hasonlóak 🙂 50e rupi

-Masszázs!!! Én a Bali Healing című helyen voltam, de szerintem bárhol. Egész Indonéziában szuperek és olcsóak.

-Ubud Market (tényleg tök jó:)

– Ubud körül: Tirta Empul – 9 kút, szent forrás ahol megfürdenek az emberek, hogy bűneiket lemossák magukról. Gyönyörű tájakon át visz az út. Én motoros sráccal mentem, kb 35perc. Van belépő. Not to be missed!!! (6erupi beugro és a motoros kiséret 40ezer volt)

– Én szinte mindennap ettem gyümölcstálat a vacsihoz. Ennyiféle számunkra ismeretlen gyümölcsöt egy országban se

A szállás Ubudban felejthető volt, Ubud View volt a neve, de rengeteg szállás van, és könnyen sétálva is lehet találni.

Úgy általában nem kell félni attól, hogy az ember nem talál valami helyeset, ha viszont tudunk valami jóról, azt érdemes lefoglalni. 150000 rupia körül már egész jókat lehet találni és az kb 15 euro. Kuta Balin egy szoba reggelivel két főre 80000 körül van átlagáron. Ha bárhol jönnek azzal, hogy idegenforgalmi adó vagy ilyesmi, tudni kell, hoy azt csak akkor kell fizetni, ha legalabb 1 hétig ott maradunk. Nem tudom a mostani árfolyamot, de akkor 15000 rupiat adtak 1 euroért. A Hyatt Sanurban már 5+++++ os kategória európai viszonylatban. Sokkal jobbak a szállások színvonalai, mint Olaszországban pl. 🙂 hehe

Egyéb programok Balin (amiket én nem próbáltam ki, de állítólag jók)

White water rafting és az Angung vulkántúra napfelkeltével… Majd meséljetek!:)